The Tasmanian approach to managing access to national parks is impressive. The first sign on entering the Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair park mentions the wildlife and the priority order for traffic places animals first after which walkers, and bikes follow whilst cars come last. The speed limit is 40 KPH and there are frequent pinch points to remind drivers of that fact. The road to Dove Lake was narrow and twisting and not for urban speed merchants. We have driven very little since arriving and today was no exception.
As the weather is still cold and rainy and the chances of better views of the mountain seemed unlikely, we decided instead to take advantage of the shorter walks marked out from the resort. At each starting point, the choice of trails is clearly marked and there is a signing in post where you give your details and where you are going: on return you signal you are back. Each walk is marked by narrow boardwalks through the deeply mossy terrain which keeps everyone off the surrounding areas and also safer as it is very easy to lose your footing and twist an ankle in a hidden pothole. We took the track to Pencil Pine Falls and then on to the Knyvet Falls beyond. The walk through the forest was quite magical. I don’t remember ever being through such primeval vegetation even in New Zealand: there are similarities with that land but this is quite unique in its close relationship to Australian flora and yet there are distinct differences that a much colder climate and mountain terrain afford. Nearer the resort is the so-called ‘Enchanted Walk’, which took us close to the river and through more secluded forestry. This walk is obviously intended for small kids, parents and the less mobile but it was delightful all the same.
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