A day of intensive driving through the plains and mountains of the Tasmanian landscape: I have been surprised how varied this country is with the sweeping plains surrounded by mountains and hills- Tiers they seem to call them. It is about two- thirds the size of England with a population of half a million I’m told. Can that be right?
Swansea itself is a small seaside town with plenty of seafood eating holes and lovely views across Oyster Bay: shopping at IGA and the petrol station were the main points of contact because we were in a hurry to head north to Bicheno. The Piermont Retreat is a few kilometres out of Swansea town and is set against the seashore. The cabins look old world but are in fact sturdy new builds. For that sturdiness we were thankful as the strong winds set in over night and the next day. We now know, having talked to the locals, that instead of the usual summer heat there have been floods and high winds throughout January and this has meant there are fewer visitors to an area that survives on tourism and farming the produce that feeds them. The people are open and friendly although much quieter than mainlanders. It probably comes from being mainly of farming and fishing origins and being exposed to few outsiders. They welcome visitors of course, as we are cash cows but that welcome nevertheless feels genuine. I confess that the only Tasmanian I have knowingly ever met is my sister in law Jenny who is soft spoken and measured.
The terrain in this east coast district is rich and fertile and the warm days and chill nights makes the best conditions for wine growing. At present, cattle and sheep are feeding on green grass instead of brown dust from the recent unusual summer rains. We sampled local wine at Springvale wineries on our way back from Bicheno and discovered how easy and inexpensive it would be to ship to Sydney. The journey onward took us to Coles Bay and Freycinet but sadly this time the fleeting visit across a choppy Oyster Bay was a mere taster of things to come.
